Not bored in Borneo

It’s too hot. We are currently sitting in a hotel in Kota Kinabalu and it’s too hot. Yesterday it was my birthday; I hung one more year on the line. I’m not depressed and my life’s not a mess and we’re having a good time…in Borneo. I thought it would be a good idea to accomplish something for my birthday, so we climbed a 3000 ft mountain. And by climbed, I mean climbed…up roots and rope ladders and rocks all the way to the top of Mt. Santubong…in tropical heat.  It was a good day and ended good with a sushi dinner in Kuching.

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a birthday kiss at the top of santubong

For the last week we were in and around Kuching. We first went to Semenggoh Park, where they rehabilitate orangutans that were held in captivity or orphaned and get them back into the wild. Before they get fully rehab’d you can pay a few ringitts to go watch them eat breakfast in the jungle. They are in between tame and wild as they are free to roam the jungle, but if they are hungry they know that they can get a free meal twice a day. So, the hungry ones show up and the ones that are closer to being on their own might rather find their own food in the jungle. When we went, we saw 7 of the 25 or so that live in the park. Orangutans are my new favorite animal.

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i wouldn’t mess with this mom personally

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young’n

The next day we took a boat to Bako National Park in hopes of seeing the big nosed Proboscis monkey and seeing some pretty nature. We were not disappointed at all. We stayed 2 nights and 3 days and saw lots of the shy proboscis as well as some silver leaf monkeys and plenty of sneaky macaques. We also saw: 2 green vipers (very poisonous, but not aggressive), 1 monitor lizard, 1 flying lemur, one mouse deer (or his eye, anyway), one big tarantula, lots of mud skippers (little fish that skip on mud of course), lots of wild boar and some glow-in-the-dark mushrooms.  We also saw some really pretty beaches and swam in a waterfall.  It was a great experience and next time you are in Kuching you should go.

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arriving at bako beach

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a beach at bako while standing in the 100F water.

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haley reflecting and refreshing at bako waterfall

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pandan kecil from above at bako

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mud skippers out of their element

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Mr. Silverleaf eating lunch

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another deserted bako beach

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how are you supposed to take this guy seriously?

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monkeys like sunset beach walks too. these ones were eating clams.

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ugly baby macaque

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pandan kecil from another angle

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paku beach at bako. deserted around sunset. monkeys nearby.

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proboscis monkey. otherwise known as nose monkey. not sure why.

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us again at delima beach. deserted again. monkeys nearby again. sinking in mud this time.

After we came back from Bako, we did some resting and planning for our next destination, Pulau Derawan. Google it.  We also went to see Bourne Legacy. The movie was good and the AC was great. It was a hot day. We also saw some of the Sarawak Regatta. It was a funny scene where people rowed up the river in the hot sun and the announcer announced like it was a horse race that lasted 20 minutes.  The grand prize was about $30,000.  Not bad for paddling a boat.

I already told you that yesterday we climbed a mountain. This morning we woke up at 4am and got our flight to Kota Kinabalu. We get our Indonesia visas here, then take an overnight bus to Tawau. We fly from Tawau to Tarakan at 1210pm. In Tarakan we take a bus or a boat to take us to Tanjung Selor. In Tanjung Selor we get a minibus to take us to Bereau.  We’ll sleep in Bereau and in the morning catch a minibus to Tanjung Batu where we will catch a speed boat to Pulau Derawan. Hopefully we’ll like Pulau Derawan a whole lot. We hope to swim with stingless jellyfish and big manta rays and turtles and watch baby turtles hatch and have a perfect moment or two. As usual, our expectations are way too high and we’ll probably complain that there’s no internet in paradise or that it’s too hot, but what can you do?

Other notes:

We have exactly 2 months until we come home.

October 9th we will go to Asu to visit our great friends Earl and Samantha at Asu Surf Camp.

November 4th we will fly to Tokyo to visit our wonderful friend Kumiko.

November 17th we will be in Seattle with our always awesome friend Rob.

November 18th we will be back home in California.

I flew a balsa-wood airplane from near the top of Mt Santubong 2 times. The first time was a horrible flight, but I was able to clime a small tree with only minor injuries to recover it and fly it again. The second flight was much better.

In KL and Kuching there has been this horrible haze that gets in the way of the blue sky and traps the heat and makes it very hot. The haze comes from farmers burning their fields in preparation for the new rice season.  It’s hot here… Fortunately the haze situation seems much better in Kota Kinabalu and hopefully will be even better in Pulau Derawan.

In Bako National park, one of the sneaky macaques jumped on my back and took a banana out of my backpack before I even knew what was happening.  Then he ate it right in front of us.

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damn monkey

Most of the places we have visited in Asia are trashed. People litter here. Even the national park was a mess. We usually pick up some of it, but there’s always plenty more. It sucks.

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B.H. – before haley

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A.H.

 

The people we have met in Borneo are very nice. Lots of people also wave and say hello.

One night we came across a Chinese temple on a sacred day (Maybe Ghost Moon Day) and it was mayhem. The tradition as far as we could tell is to donate a bunch of food and drink, place them on a platform, blow a whistle and go crazy. Try to get some food. If you do, you will have a lucky year, if not you will have bad luck. Meanwhile have a huge fire nearby. The ambulance did show up shortly after the big event.

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chinese riot festival

We eat lots of noodles here.

Last night I traded a shirt that was too small for me for two pears. Both parties were very happy with the deal.

This blog has been going for 1 year now.

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i tried to trade this guy one pear for one shirt, but he was a fair trade type and insisted that i take two pears

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Gabe + Haley: Malaysia (with a minor interlude in Singapore) Installation & Happy Birthday Marci-Girl

ScreenShot001Ok so we are more than a little bit behind on blogging.  It’s just that we were really busy swimming in waterfalls, hiking canyons, taking Thai cooking classes, relaxing, and watching the daily rainbows from our deck in Pai.  And then we got to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and the adjustment to that place was intense enough that we couldn’t dream of writing a blog.  And then we went to the Perhentian Islands where internet (and electricity, for that matter) sucked.  And then we got to Singapore two days ago after the train ride from absolute hell and have been running running running all over this island nation for the past two days.  So that’s our excuse.

Pai was awesome in every way.  We spent way too much time on our amazing deck and explored some really nice waterfalls and a beautiful canyon.  The canyon would have been better had we chosen to visit it a) not in flip flops and b) not at high noon where it could not have been any hotter than it was.  It was still gorgeous though.  We also ate our way through town and discovered some amazing restaurants – especially Charlie and Lek’s – where we finally took a cooking class (local market tour included) with Lek.  If you go to Pai, take their class.  Oh, and also eat every single meal at their restaurant.  We were really sad to say goodbye to Pai and would recommend that anyone go there, at least during the low season.

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Bueng Pai dreamin’

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Bueng Pai moon rise

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If this team can’t teach you how to cook, give up.

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flying squirrel seems to be my preferred rock jumping pose

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haley living on the edge

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180 degrees of Pai Canyon

coconut dog at bueng pai farm

After Pai we headed back to “Harry and Margaret’s Guesthouse” in Chiang Mai where we had the pleasure of meeting their son Mike, plus one final night of their wonderful hospitality.  Gabe got to pick up the finished prototype of his product and order a few more to be sent to the U.S.  He was really happy with the result.  We said a sad final goodbye to our good new friends Harry and Margaret and boarded a flight to Kuala Lumpur (and if you are cool and an Asian local or ex-pat, you call it KL).

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Flags on a building in KL

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Worms Michael?


KL was not exactly our favorite place on the trip so far, to put it mildly.  It made sense as a gateway to Malaysia given our plans for the Perhentian Islands, but it wasn’t for us.  The biggest shocker was going from our heavenly lake-front bungalow in Pai, to a windowless box with no bathroom in a hot dirty city….for the same amount of $$$.  We did our best to see some stuff in KL despite the searing heat.  Highlights were seeing the monkeys at the Batu Cave, visiting the SkyBar at Trader’s Hotel to get an awesome view of the Petronas Twin Towers and their pretty cool Bellagio-type water fountain show.  We checked out the night market in Little India, visited the National Mosque (pretty cool – I had to wear a head-covering and everything), the Islamic Arts Museum (the building itself was the coolest part, that and the tiny handmade, hundreds of years old Qur’ans), a really beautiful Indian temple, the Lake Gardens (an oasis in the hustle and bustle of the city), Merkedea Square, and generally wandered the city.  We also had a lovely lunch at the Chinese Temple vegetarian buffet with the nicest friend of a friend ever, Yiga, who gave us the lowdown on Malaysian culture (one interesting fact:  your RELIGION is printed on your ID card and if you are caught eating during the day during Ramadan and they check your ID card, you can get arrested!).  And as KL is a Southeast Asian capital, we of course hit the malls (exclusively for A/C purposes, no electronics shopping believe it or not).  The malls in KL beat any other SE Asian malls thus far (for those of you who know, Singapore was AFTER).  They are massive – they go on for multiple city blocks, they are 12 and 15 stories high, they have amusement parks (like with actual roller coasters) inside. On our last day it was so hot that we decided to just stay in mall to see a movie after slipping in for an A/C break.  We saw The Watchers.  We laughed and liked it. One night we ate noodles that looked and felt like worms in your mouth, but tasted great.

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muslim haley

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big bright towers in KL

That night we left KL on an overnight bus for the Perhentian Islands.  This is where the beauty and kindness of the Malaysian people really shined for us.  We had a 10pm bus from the craziest, hottest, dirtiest, unorganized-est, chaotic-est bus station that ever was (sorry for all the adjectives, Gabe).  We got there at 9:40pm and after wandering up and down and around and asking a million people (none of whom knew anything) and getting on every bus to ask if it was ours, it was clear that ours was either not coming, or left early, or never existed in the first place.  In any case, in the midst of trying to figure out what the hell to do, Gabe asked a guy from another bus company if he might know where our bus was.  While he didn’t know, he was pretty sure it wasn’t going to be showing up at that point.  So what did he do?  He asked a guy from yet a third bus company to put us on his bus, and then at the overnight rest stop transfer us to a different bus that would take us to our original destination.  “How much?”, we asked.  “No money. I help you.  You follow him.  He tell you where you go.”  Blindly follow him we did, on his bus we went, off at the rest stop we got, on to another bus with no questions asked we boarded.  And aside from mild cases of hypothermia despite wearing jackets and sweaters and socks and pashminas (the warnings about Malaysian bus A/C were not all hype), we arrived at the ferry landing intact and exactly on schedule.

The 30-minute speedboat to Perhentian Kecil was beautiful if not a bit bumpy, and we hopped off at Coral Bay in search of a place to stay.  After just a few steps down the beach, we were more than a little disappointed.  The Perhentians were not exactly the off-the-beaten track islands we had read about and the places to stay (at least in our price range) were downright gross.  After looking at pit after pit we settled on a pit that was at least generously discounted when purchasing a scuba diving package.  We reconciled that at least we’d be underwater most of our stay and would therefore not have to spend that much time in it.  And we ended up having a really amazing stay due to our diving experiences.  We did 5 dives over 3 days.  All of the dive sites were like swimming through a giant aquarium – the number of fish and sea creatures was mind-blowing.  Among other things too numerous to list, we saw gigantic schools of brightly colored fish, a coral garden out of Planet Earth, bamboo sharks, lion fish, angel fish, bat fish, barracudas, giant morey eels, blue-spotted rays, pufferfish, triggerfish, one turtle and the jackpot…..a whale shark!  The whale shark was so indescribably cool and we were so lucky to see it that we are still getting over it (it was our dive guide’s 227th dive and her first whale shark – it was my 9th dive and probably Gabe’s 15th or so).  It swam above us once casting a huge shadow, then swam past us 2 more times at eye level where we were able to hover for a minute or so and watch him – he was only about 6 feet away. So, so, so, so cool.  We also did a dive at a ship wreck which was interesting as well.

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on the way to the pinnacle dive site in the perhentians

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pretty place seen from the boat leaving the perhentians

After the Perhentians we started making our way to Borneo via Singapore.  We took a miserable overnight train from the Northern end of Malaysia to Singapore that was supposed to take 13.5 hours and ended up taking over 18.  There was never an explanation as to why we weren’t moving, when we would start moving again, and exactly how late we were going to be.  And the A/C only worked when it felt like it.  We arrived in Singapore in some of the worst shape we have been on the trip this far.  Waaaahh, our sleeper train from one paradise to another was delayed, waaaaahhhhh.  But, I did find the sweetest kitten ever during our long wait at the train station.  And as you can see from the picture below, and contrary to what Gabe would say, I did NOT torture him.

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you be the judge

The cleanliness and organization of Singapore was a welcome relief and we have spent the last two days wandering through this very Vegas-like city/island/country.  The malls dwarf and pale any other mall we have seen in Asia in size and impressiveness.  They are 10 times more luxurious, the fake outdoor “streets” are more realistic, the A/C is colder, the prices are higher, and the number of people seems to be infinite.  The whole city feels futuristic.  The architecture is waaaaaaay out there and extravagance is the only way to go.  Yesterday we got to share a lovely sushi meal with our sweet friend Sheela whom we had not seen in almost two years, and we also spent half a day at the Singapore Zoo which is supposed to be world-famous where the animals roam freely and seem really happy.  This was definitely the case for the orangutans and we spent the better part of an hour watching them roam freely above the tourists doing exactly as they pleased.  But as for living conditions of the rest of the animals, I was not so impressed and am resuming my boycott on zoos for the remainder of my days – with no exceptions, world-famous or not. We also got to go to the top of one of those huge buildings, that had a huge infinity pool on top of it looking out over the Singaporean skyline. Plus we watched a water fountain light show that made the KL show (and the Belaggio show for that matter) look soooo 20th century.  They projected video on the water spray.

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see the happy people in the fountain?

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This mom orang utan had 1 baby, but then another mom got sick and couldn’t take care of her baby, so this mom adopted the other baby and now has two babies. the other mom didn’t seem to mind.

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swimming pool on top of singapore

So that brings us to today.  We leave for Kuching on Malaysian Borneo in a couple of hours where we hope to have many the jungle adventure – the goal is wild orangutans, turtle egg laying reserves, jungle treks, and general leech, mosquito, and bed bug avoidance.  Wish us luck.  See you on the flip side.

Love,

Haley and Gabe

Other notes:

We have been through 4 umbrellas since January.  I am pretty sure the count is not up yet.

KL is now the hottest place we have been.

They still hang people and cane people in Singapore and you don’t even have to do anything that bad (14g of heroin and you die). Chewing gum and being gay are illegal too.

Malaria medicine starts tonight.  Hopefully it’s not too late.  (Don’t worry, Moms.)

We met and had a great evening on Perhentian with an Italian guy named Emiliano.  He took a picture of a rainbow for us and we’re trying to get him to send it to us.  And we might meet up in Borneo if he hurries up.

The dive culture on Perhentian is hardcore.  Whale shark sightings cause absolute mayhem, everyone running for the boat like the island is on fire.  The employees at the dive shop we used tried to see the whale shark about a half hour before we did and missed him.  They all sulked for the rest of the day.  And they weren’t that happy with or nice to us when we got back from our dive.

Perhentian Kecil could have been an island paradise.  Trash and ugly development (and I use the world “development” lightly here) got in the way.  Obviously, we are more than a little bit spoiled.

On this trip, right as we are arriving in a new place, one of us (usually Gabe) always says, “remember, we’re not gonna like it”.  Someday we will get over ourselves but we tend to be disappointed by most places upon arrival, and then they grow on us (or not).

The place where we took the train from Malaysia to Singapore was one of our favorite places in Malaysia so far.  Wakaf Bharu.  Just this little workaday town with super friendly people and some bad-ass satay in peanut sauce.  Highly recommend it though there is absolutely nothing to see.

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Chiang Mai to Pai….and our last days in Thailand and Happy Birthday Earl!

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Up until a week ago, I would have considered myself a pretty good hostess.  My mom taught me well and I know the basics – make sure someone has a drink in their hand as soon as they arrive for a party or dinner, make them feel at home if they are a houseguest, nice and neat and clean place to sleep, tell them to help themselves to anything they need or want, show them around if they are from out of town, etc.  However, after a week at Margaret and Harry’s, it’s clear I have no idea what to do. I’d give myself a mediocre rating at best.

First of all, Margaret and Harry didn’t know us from Adam.  Seriously.  We met Margaret’s brother Martin and his new bride Sue on our very first stop of this journey on the island of Grenada at La Sagesse. When we finally got to Northern Thailand we touched base with Margaret to make sure we got a chance to meet her and Harry.  On less than 24 hours notice, she invited us (again, complete strangers) and Aunt Jo (even more of a stranger) to come and stay with them.  Upon our arrival, we were picked up at the bus station (more of a luxury than you might imagine), settled into the most comfortable of rooms in their beautiful traditional wooden Thai home, treated (???!!!) to dinner at a vegetarian restaurant (which Margaret had gleaned from blog posts would be appreciated), and were totally taken care of in every way.  Unfortunately for Jo the 5-star treatment only lasted a day as she had to head to Bangkok, but we delighted in Margaret and Harry’s hospitality for an entire week.  Travel advice and arrangements, personal tours of the local artisan factories, guided hikes up the mountainside to hidden temples, a guest cell phone for our use, chauffer service all over town, insider info on all of the best things to do and see, beautiful Thai meals and decadent Italian meals.  Our time in Chiang Mai would have been nothing close to what it was had we not had the fortune of meeting Martin and Sue.  So many thanks to Martin and Sue and Margaret and Harry (and also our feline host and hostess Coco and Chiquita who might be the sweetest cats I have met on this trip – and we all know there have been many).

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gabe’s pretty wife

Legendary host and hostess aside, Chiang Mai as a city was itself a great stop – a nice break to be in one place, and an actual home at that, for a while, after 7 nights of sleeping in 7 different towns.  We also got to meet and have dinner with Jim, Noi and Monique Cohan.  Jim is the brother of our very dear family friends Kenny and Suze (at whose home we were married). Other than that we took it pretty easy, browsing markets, visiting waterfalls and hot springs, talking to local handicraft makers to try to get a prototype made for a kid’s product that Gabe and some of his friends designed, doing research and planning and suffering and worrying about the next stage of this journey (see?  it’s not all fun and games out here), and tooling around on our motorbike.  One of the highlights was a 100km loop we did to the Northwest of the city that took us to a 10-level waterfall we had practically to ourselves. We continued riding through quaint Thai agriculture villages, primary forests and jungle, up to the finale of stunning panoramic views out to Myanmar (Burma).  Chiang Mai is a  well stocked city with many of the creature comforts of a bigger metropolis, surrounded by lots of natural beauty.  A great stop indeed.  But as easy as it would have been to stay with Margaret and Harry indefinitely (and being all British and polite as they are, I am not sure they would have ever kicked us out…) the time on our Thai visas is running low and we wanted to check out the far North before we headed out of Thailand.  So yesterday we headed out in a mini-bus to Pai.

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wierdest- all these dogs dressed up and pretending to sleep at the night market in chiang mai.

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above chiang mai

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haley holding up the quail eggs we were under-cooking in the hot spring.

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gabe trying to get this guy to make a prototype.

 

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dannnnnnnnnng

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looking west to burma on a nice day

We are currently at Bueng Pai Farm, way up North near the Myanmar border.  Pai makes Santa Cruz look like Yuppie-ville.  Talk about hippie dippie.  You stand out if you don’t have dreadlocks and shave any of your body hair.  Every café is advertising wheatgrass juice or fresh fruit shakes or vegetarian menus, all the clothes for sale are of the hippie varietal, and the place is about as gorgeous as you can get.  Rice paddies stretch as far as you can see and the bowl of land in which Pai sits is surrounded by jungle covered hillsides.  The temperatures are cool’ish (not Sapa but you actually don’t mind a sweater at night) and we have a bungalow out in the rice paddies over a small lake with fish jumping, real lotus flowers growing out of the water, and meticulously cared-for grounds, down to a sweet-smelling gardenia outside our window.  While there are many waterfalls and National Parks, and temples and caves and other things to see around here, we arrived yesterday and have basically yet to leave our lakefront veranda/hammock.  This place is close to heaven.  We already plan to overstay our visas by 3 days and I am beginning to wonder if it will only be 3 days.  Not really, though. We fly out on September 1 to get our dive and orangutan-loving on in Malaysia and Borneo.  But hopefully we will have some adventures from Pai to share about before then…if we could just get off this deck.

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would you leave here? there’s even a rainbow.

Love you all,

Haley and Gabe

Other notes:

I learned how to ride a scooter….or at least figured out that it actually is just like riding a bike like Gabe told me.  And don’t make fun of my hat-under-helmet and grandma’s-sun-shirt look.  Sun protection trumps fashion when spending 100km worth of scooter hours under the Thai sun.  And don’t worry Mom, I didn’t leave the parking lot.

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no problem

We got some amazing $4/hour massages in Chiang Mai in the grounds of a temple.

We had delicious desserts on our last night in Chiang Mai: Tiramisu and Panna Cotta. It was fun to eat something other than Asian food.

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yum

When we ate dinner at Jim, Noi and Monique’s house, Noi and Monique somehow put together a huge delicious Thai meal for 5 in less than an hour.

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yum

Pai really is hippie.  They even have a Buffalo Exchange.  But then again, isn’t that a chain and doesn’t that therefore make it corporate?

We really did suffer over picking our next destination. You would think we would be more grateful after traveling through third world countries and seeing people living in poverty, but no. Poor us had to decide between flying to Burma or Malaysia. As I was becoming more and more annoyed I was thinking how ridiculous it was, but that didn’t help either.

Gabe finally got the prototype made and was very happy about it.

Haley found another nice dog.

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yum

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Hi (again) from Aunt Jo! and Happy Birthday to Gabby and Gina

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Hey gang! It’s me again! I just got back to sunny Santa Rosa, Ca and just had to post one more blog about our adventures. It’s sort of funny…when I posted the first blog, I was thinking…hmmm….maybe I shouldn’t include everything that’s happened. After all, what am I ever going to talk about after bears, a waterfall, a trip to the hospital, monks and chocolate chip cookies?

Well…the great news is that I have tons and tons to write about!!!! Sooooo many “bests” , I hardly know where to begin!

Got to start with the elephants! There is nothing more fun than getting to feed an elephant, bathe an elephant or get kissed by an elephant!!!!! We got to spend a day at the Elephant Nature Park (where they rescue elephants!) and it was awesome!

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Haley was trying to tell this elephant that she was out of bananas, but the elephant didn’t believe her.

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haley in her element

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joe in her element

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probing elephant

First…let me tell you about the plight of elephants in captivity. It’s brutal! Actually, I’ll spare you all the details but you might want to think twice about ever wanting to ride an elephant or going to see one in the circus. In fact, I just read an article about why elephant riding should be removed from your bucket list. Here’s the site if you are interested.

http://journals.worldnomads.com/responsible-travel/story/81053/Thailand/Why-Elephant-Riding-Should-Be-Removed-from-Your-Bucket-List

The Elephant Nature Park rescues elephants – from circuses, from people who use them to beg money from tourists, or from people who just left them out to fend for themselves because the elephants are sick or injured. It was started by Lek, a woman from Thailand, whom we actually got to meet!  Not only does she rescue elephants, but she rescues dogs! They rescued more than 1,000 dogs that were made homeless by the floods in Thailand last year!

Yikes! I could go on and on about the elephants and dogs but I won’t. (Check out the Elephant Nature Park either on Facebook or the web for more info.) Suffice it to say that it was totally cool to spend a day with the elephants!!!!

Another highlight was renting motorbikes and getting to see the Thai countryside near Chiang Rai. Our thought was to “head for the hills” so to speak and check out the rainforest and national park. It seemed like a good idea at the time but…there was one problem. The waterfall was in a rainforest, so when we got there it was raining and the sign clearly stated ‘WATERFALL CLOSED FOR RAINING’. We waited almost 2 hours for the rain to stop and it only got heavier. The funny thing was that as soon as we gave up and came down out of the rainforest, the rain stopped and the streets weren’t even wet. We had literally found a rain cloud and chosen to hang out under it for a while. It’s probably still raining there.

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Jo back on a scooter for the first time in a long time and loving every second of it.

Riding motorbikes (or bicycles for that matter!) is a real treat in Thailand. We had rented bicycles the day before and it was also a blast. They drive on the “wrong” side of the street so it’s an adventure. If you are going to rent scooters or ride bikes, Thailand is a good place to do it. People are pretty laid back and there isn’t the aggression like you see here in the States nor the congestion that you see in other Asian countries.

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this looks very posed and I think it was.

Oops…I think that I forgot one little important detail – like how did we get to Thailand from Laos? In my last blog, we were still in Luang Prabang, which I still can’t say enough good things about. But we decided to head up even farther north in Laos to Muang Ngoi anyway.

Muang Ngoi is really off the beaten track – you can only get there by boat. It’s a small village with electricity for a few hours each evening. Rooms are cheap ($3.75) which includes a killer view of the river from the hammock on your bungalow’s deck. We took a “long boat” (seats 5) to a couple of the villages upstream. Not a lot of tourists in this part of the world. We had fun “talking” to the villagers. Actually, no one spoke English there and none of us spoke Lao but we made the best of it. Gabe had fun helping with chores (chopping wood, sweeping stairs, etc.) which provided a lot of entertainment all around. And…I got a great traditional Laotian sun hat! It was so great that I even gave her my red baseball cap as a thank you.

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chop chop

And just to tell you how great the hat was…when I was leaving from the Bangkok airport earlier today, a Chinese man on my flight from Bangkok to Taipei asked me if he could trade my Laotian hat for his cowboy hat. Of course I told him no way!

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jo buying a hat for way more than it usually goes for in this little village and enjoying it.

But I’m getting way off track…We had total fun in Muang Ngoi. We went tubing down the river with travelers from Ireland and Israel which was an adventure – especially getting back into the long boat which I won’t bore you with the details! Suffice it to say that grace is not one of my strong points! And thanks to Shinead for rescuing my flip flop that didn’t quite make it back into the boat when I did!

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this girl saved jo’s flip flop and everyone was happy.

But it wasn’t tubing that I’ll remember from Muang Ngoi…It will be the leeches! Here’s the deal…My little bungalow was next to this couple from England. When we arrived, I hung out with them and they told me that we should do this trek up to the top of this mountain just out of town. They said it was a very tough climb, but it was worth the view. They went on and on about it and I told Gabe and Haley that it was something that I really wanted to do. So…the next morning we started out. It certainly was everything that the couple had told us. The trail was slippery, rocky, etc., and the view was absolutely breathtaking but…What made it so difficult, was the damn leeches. They were everywhere! They looked like inch worms – little guys that were spring loaded and jumped on your tennis shoes. If you didn’t catch them the minute they landed on your shoes, you never had a second chance. In a second they would burrow into your shoes and the next thing you knew, they had bitten your feet.

It was crazy! The “trail” which was no more than mud, rocks and bamboo railing, wasn’t the problem. It’s just that every time a leech jumped on me, I jumped a mile high. Oh well…3 leech bites later and a cold shower, I was almost as good as new. Must admit…I found another leech stuck on my hip which set me back a little!

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jo showing off her dirt. at this point there was only one leech sucking her blood.

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view of muang ngoi from the viewpoint above muang ngoi

I can see that this blog is going on way too long. Here’s the short ending. From Muang Ngoi we took a 7 hour boat back to Luang Prabang and then a 2 day boat to the Thai Border, then a bus to Chiang Rai the next day. We then went by bus to Chaing Mai where the elephants and a wonderful couple named Harry and Margaret welcomed us. Harry and Margaret are the greatest! It’s a long story but they are friends of friends who welcomed us with open arms in their beautiful home!!!!!

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the best hosts ever, Margaret and Harry taking us to dinner on our first night in town.

I’m home now and it’s 4am on Sunday morning and it’s time to go to bed. I really want to thank Haley and Gabe for letting me come visit them. I had a wonderful time. They are easy to travel with, adventuresome, and just wonderful people. I’m proud to be a member of their family! And for anyone who is thinking about visiting them in their travels, do it! It will be the memory of a lifetime!

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This picture was taken from our balcony.

Big hug to everyone!

Jo Anne (more commonly known as Aunt Jo)

Other notes from Gabe and Haley:

Muang Ngoi, Laos was one of our favorite places we’ve been this year. If you get a chance to go, then go. It’s about 7 hours bus and boat from Luang Prabang and you might never leave. Jo had to drag us out of there.

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I hesitated to put up this picture, as I feel that it will increase tourism to this place. just promise to be a good tourist when you go please.

We took lots of boats and the scenery was always beautiful. Sometimes the seats were more comfortable than others. On most of the long rides we were living large.

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Jo stretching out on the long ride from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng.

On one boat ride a local guy next to us who spoke no English bought my fake Rayban sunglasses off me for $1.25 (I paid $7 in Cambodia but they had cracked so we had to account for depreciation – plus that is what he offered me). He liked the polarized part, plus I’m sure he was the coolest guy in his village when he had those on. This was also the weirdest part of our day that day.

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Not only did he have my glasses, but he had a cowboy hat most likely purchased from another traveler. His village probably had a population of 30.

One of our ‘bests’ during this timeframe was giving our camera away to this sweet couple from Holland/Ireland after theirs had broken and we had gotten our new one delivered by Jo. Ours had a scratch on the lens and some other issues, but it still took great pictures. We also had lots of fun playing crazy 8s with them on our boat ride from Pak Beng to Huay Xai.

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I’m pointing to Luca, because she was the crazy 8s champion at the time. Not to be confused with the current crazy 8s champion, me.

As usual, the blog is behind schedule and even though more things have already happened (see post date), they will be discussed next time.

Check the videos page or photos page if you want to see even more.

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6 Responses to Hi (again) from Aunt Jo! and Happy Birthday to Gabby and Gina

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A few more ugly details

Some people wanted to know more about Haley’s Dengue episode and my toe issues. Jo is already writing the next blog that we will probably post tomorrow, but we wanted to document a few more things to add to her last post first.

After Haley’s ‘food poisoning’ stopped acting like food poisoning, I got on the internet (where all symptoms lead to the worst diseases ever that often end up being fatal) and diagnosed her with Malaria. To confirm my suspicions, we went across the street to the ‘clinic’  to get a blood test. It turns out that the clinic doctor was great and even had fancy machines that came from France. The blood test cost us $9 and 10 minutes later we confirmed that internet sucks at diagnosing, and that Haley had a mild case of Dengue Fever (otherwise known as break-bone disease because it feels like your bones are breaking – I guess all of Haley’s “I’m dying” and “Make it stop” crying was warranted). Nothing to do but drink lots of water and electrolytes, rest, and wait it out. Haley did that for about five days, and I hung around taking care of her.

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the problem with coconut based rehydration is that you have to hold up the 20lb coconut in your weakened state.

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haley dying while the doctor blew the blood sample dry with a hair dryer

Meanwhile, one of my nasty toenails had chosen to grow under the skin and cause me pain and infection. I did everything I could to NOT go to the hospital or doctor as we had heard horror stories about the Laos medical care, but eventually it seemed like the best option. Limited English and the 15 doctors in training watching my toe operation made for more excitement and the local anesthetic shots to the big toe made for enough pain that I was swearing like a sailor and wincing like a baby. It hurt really badly (Haley had a really hard time watching and listening to my yelling). Kinda like when  they shoot Novocain into your gums at the dentist X 1000. After that they wrapped my toe and told me do NOT get it wet, which I promptly did. You try hopping through 2 foot deep water for 30 minutes without getting your other foot wet. The sad thing is, it got wet when I was just standing there and forgot to hold it up high enough. Anyways…no infection followed the premature wetness and soon Haley and I were both healed up.

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now everyone in luang prabang knows how to treat an ingrown toenail

Other things that Jo didn’t mention:

After we were mostly healed, we found an English class where we could all volunteer for 2 hours. Teaching is hard.

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say banana god dammit!

One other thing that Jo ‘forgot’ was that she climbed up a tree with all the intentions of getting on a rope swing, but then couldn’t bring herself to walk the last 3 feet required to grab the rope. In her defense, it looked pretty slippery and dicey. Regardless it made for good laughs and was a perfect example of Jo’s reliable go-for-it attitude.

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so close

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what Jo would have looked like if she could have just crawled those final few feet

The food in Luang Prabang was delicious. One of our favorites were these coconut and rice pancake things that were served in a banana leaf bowl. We ate lots of them. There is also a $1.25 all you can fit on your plate place that was great and if you feel like even better food there’s plenty of that too. May have been one of the best food towns of our trip.

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coconut, rice, tapioca, yum

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proud of their piled plates in luang prabang

Haley tortured more animals.

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at least someone is smiling

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this one almost looks happy.

The previously mentioned continuous hammering turned out to be from a silversmith located directly next door to us and never stopped.

In case you need a nice English speaking pharmacist in Luang Prabang, we found one. We went to her 10 times.

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